# How much electricity does a wine fridge use?

Source: https://corkandchill.co.uk/blog/wine-fridge-running-cost
Published: 2026-10-12
Publisher: Cork and Chill

**In short:** Most wine fridges state an annual figure on the energy label, often somewhere around 100 to 200 kWh a year for common under-counter and freestanding models. That is roughly 0.3 to 0.55 kWh a day. To find your cost, multiply the kWh per year by your unit rate in pence and divide by 100. Real use rises in a warm room or with frequent door opening.

A wine fridge runs around the clock, so it is fair to ask what it adds to the electricity bill. The good news is that the energy label gives you a measured annual figure in kWh, and from that you can work out a cost using your own tariff. This guide explains where to find the figure, what affects real-world use, how wine fridges compare with other appliances, and simple ways to keep consumption down. We do not quote costs in pounds, because tariffs change and vary between households; instead use your unit rate and our calculator.

## Where to find the kWh figure

UK energy labels for wine storage appliances show the annual energy consumption in kWh per year, along with the efficiency class, bottle capacity and noise. Listings often repeat the figure: for example, the Severin KS 9894 states 140 kWh a year, the Liebherr UWKes 1752-22 states 139 kWh, and the Schmécké 24-bottle cooler states 122.64 kWh. Those figures appear in our [under-counter guide](https://corkandchill.co.uk/best/best-under-counter-wine-fridges) and [freestanding guide](https://corkandchill.co.uk/best/best-freestanding-wine-fridges).

The label figure is measured in a lab at a fixed room temperature with the door closed. Treat it as a fair way to compare models rather than an exact prediction of your bill.

## Working out your own cost

You need two numbers: the annual kWh from the label and your unit rate from your electricity bill, shown in pence per kWh. Then:

For example, a fridge labelled at 140 kWh a year uses about 0.38 kWh a day. Multiply 140 by the pence per kWh on your bill and divide by 100 to get the yearly cost in pounds. If you are on a time-of-use tariff, use an average of your rates, because a fridge runs day and night.

- **Cost per year** = kWh per year x unit rate in pence, divided by 100.
- **Cost per month** = cost per year divided by 12.
- **kWh per day** = kWh per year divided by 365.

[Use the running cost calculator](https://corkandchill.co.uk/tools/running-cost-calculator)

## Typical consumption by type

These are typical ranges seen on labels and listings. Your model's label is the figure to use.

| Type | Typical label figure | Per day |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Compact 12 to 20 bottle compressor | About 100 to 150 kWh | About 0.3 to 0.4 kWh |
| Under-counter 30 to 50 bottles | About 120 to 180 kWh | About 0.3 to 0.5 kWh |
| Tall freestanding 100+ bottles | About 150 to 250 kWh | About 0.4 to 0.7 kWh |
| Glass-door drinks fridge | About 60 to 150 kWh | About 0.2 to 0.4 kWh |

Typical annual consumption ranges

## What makes real use higher or lower

- **Room temperature:** the label is measured at a fixed room temperature. A warm kitchen, conservatory or garden room in summer makes the fridge work harder.
- **Ventilation:** a freestanding unit boxed into a cabinet, or a built-in model with its front grille covered, runs longer. See our [ventilation guide](https://corkandchill.co.uk/blog/wine-fridge-ventilation).
- **Setting:** a lower setting uses more energy. Storage guidance of about 12 °C is easier on the fridge than 5 °C.
- **Door opening:** each opening lets warm air in, especially with glass-door drinks fridges in busy kitchens.
- **Loading:** a full fridge holds temperature well once cooled, but loading many warm bottles at once makes it run hard for hours.
- **Seals and dust:** a poor door seal or dusty condenser increases running time.
- **Cooling type:** thermoelectric units can use more energy than you expect in a warm room, because they run almost constantly. See [compressor vs thermoelectric](https://corkandchill.co.uk/blog/compressor-vs-thermoelectric-wine-cooler).

## How to keep consumption down

Place the fridge away from ovens, radiators and direct sun. Leave the gaps the manual asks for and keep vents clean. Set the temperature to what you need rather than the lowest figure, and keep door openings short. Check the door seal with a sheet of paper now and then. If you are buying new, compare the kWh per year figure on labels for models of similar capacity; our [energy labels guide](https://corkandchill.co.uk/blog/wine-fridge-energy-labels) explains why the class letter alone can mislead.

For impartial general advice on saving energy at home, the Energy Saving Trust publishes guidance on appliances.

## Frequently asked questions

**Are wine fridges energy efficient?** Many carry low class letters such as F or G, but their actual kWh per year is often modest. Compare the kWh figure.

**Does a wine fridge use more than a normal fridge?** Often similar or less per year, because it runs warmer, but a food fridge is usually larger. Compare the labels.

**Should I turn my wine fridge off at night?** No. Switching off lets the temperature swing, which is worse for wine and saves little.

**Does a dual-zone fridge use more energy?** Often slightly more than a single-zone model of similar size, especially with a big gap between zones.

## Buying guides on this topic

- https://corkandchill.co.uk/best/best-under-counter-wine-fridges
- https://corkandchill.co.uk/best/best-freestanding-wine-fridges
- https://corkandchill.co.uk/best/best-wine-fridges-under-500

## Sources

- [Energy Saving Trust](https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/)